Food & Drink: Horses and courses (From Free Press Series)

Food & Drink: Horses and courses

Stephen Molyneux has a passion for food, but not for Jamie Oliver.

"I can't stand him," he laughs. "Delia, though, she's great."

Stephen's just as vocal about his food. "I make a point of buying local ingredients as often as possible. They taste so much better and there is some great produce out there.

"When in season things like asparagus, fresh strawberries, Usk salmon, pheasant, lamb and Welsh black beef can't be beaten," he says.

The locally renowned chef - best known for his demonstrations at the Abergavenny Food Festival - has owned and run the critically acclaimed Black Bear Inn and Restaurant in Bettws Newydd near Usk for the last ten years.

By just looking at the rustic white-washed walls outside you get a sense of the inner-charm that makes this popular food-lovers haunt such an idyllic choice.

"I think what makes the Black Bear Inn such a success is the calm, friendly atmosphere and the homely surroundings inside," says Stephen.

"Everything is freshly bought and cooked and presented in the way I feel best on the day. For me it's very important to buy and use as much local, fresh produce as possible."

The restaurant itself seats 35 and since opening in 1994 has attracted some pretty big celebrities at its tables including the now-departed Desmond Llewellyn.

"We've had quite a few famous people eat here particularly from the horse racing world," says Stephen, who has a passion for racehorses.

Fish dishes are certainly a favourite at the Black Bear Inn and after working at some of Europe's most prestigious restaurants Stephen has developed a keen eye for quality dishes.

"I do like cooking with fish. It makes an excellent meal and things like monkfish pan-fried and served with a pink peppercorn sauce can't be beaten."

Stephen reckons Monmouthshire is a great place to enjoy fine food and recommends as many locals take advantage of the great restaurants in the area.

"There's so much food out there for people to enjoy. You don't have to go to the trendy London restaurants anymore. Monmouthshire has it all on its door step."

Stephen's simple two course menu

Starter - Filets of sole, stuffed with salmon.

You will need four ounces of sole; four ounces of salmon; one egg white; six ounces of cream; fresh basil; a tub of natural yoghurt; water cress and black pepper.

Blend the salmon, egg white and cream. Stuff the mixture into the sole fillets and roll. Wrap in cling film with fresh basil. Poach in water for 15 minutes. Serve with fresh yoghurt, water cress and black pepper.

Main course - Welsh rack of lamb.

You will need red currant jelly; fresh rosemary; one garlic clove; two four-bone racks of lamb - trimmed; fresh mint; port and cream.

Roast the lamb with garlic, rosemary and red currant jelly at 450c for 15 minutes. Take out of oven, remove lamb from pan and reduce the juices with port, fresh mnt, more red currant jelly and cream until saunce thickens. Carve the lamb and place on late on top of sauce. Serve with green vegetables tossed in butter and fresh herbs.

Stephen's favourite wines

Chables - a dry white burgandy that is crisp and fruity on the palate.

Chatteau Pavie - a deep red wine woven with a delicious black currant flavour.

Pomerol - a sublime red wine that is earthy and rich in flavour.