Where there's a mill, there's a way (From Free Press Series)

Where there's a mill, there's a way

The first thing you notice about Michelle De'Cloedt are her designer Dior glasses.

Then you learn that she's married to a former chart-topping pop star, she's travelled the world, including two years living in Los Angeles and San Francisco, and, by the way, she's just returned from a family holiday in Mauritius.

But behind her glamorous image is a tale of hard work and steely determination, which helped the 30-year-old become the driving force behind one of Monmouthshire's best restaurants - The Stonemill at Rockfield, near Monmouth.

Potentially major problems such as the foot and mouth crisis and an unexpected pregnancy could not stop her in her quest to see her dream of converting a 16th century cider mill into a top-notch restaurant becoming reality.

Now, with her business thriving and her 21-month-old son Jaydn in tow, all the hard work, sweat and tears has been worth it.

And this year, the Stonemill has been given a Michelin rating as well as picking up a Silver Award in the first ever Dining Out Guide for Wales, produced by True Taste Wales, the foodie arm of the Welsh Development Agency.

"It was a huge challenge but after sitting down with my dad to talk about what I wanted to do, I never really had any doubts that it would be a success.

"To be honest, I think initially he still saw me as his little baby and that I wasn't ready but he put a lot of trust in me and I'm proud to have proved him right," said Michelle.

After sitting her A Levels at Newent Comprehensive in the Forest of Dean, Michelle took a business and communications course in Cheltenham. All the while, however, she was working in restaurants as a waitress before joining Reckless Designs in Monmouth where she went from weighing out clay to becoming one of their top ceramic designers in just under three years.

But with her catering ambitions still very much alive, she and a friend decided to travel around Europe for six months, again working in restaurants as they went.

"It was in Portugal that I really got into the whole local food thing. The local markets were just fantastic and I knew I was hooked."

After returning briefly to the UK, Michelle then decided to up sticks again and try her luck in the USA. "I was all alone and to be honest I was petrified but once I decide to do something, I go through with it."

She worked in a variety of restaurants and her experience of local foods and the catering industry in general was growing all the time.

But her worldwide gastronomic adventure was not yet over and she took in the likes of Australia, Bangkok and South Africa before coming home for good in 1998.

The following year, she married her husband Mark, who she had known since she was 17, and who was a former member of the Forest of Dean-based band EMF which enjoyed worldwide success with their hit Unbelievable, a chart-topper on both sides of the Atlantic.

They were wed in the grounds of the Stonemill, when the restaurant was still a derelict barn. Michelle jokes that it was the cheapest option for her parents Peter and Rita Morris who own the neighbouring Steppes Farm Cottages and their four-acre setting.

As well as a perfect location for her wedding, Michelle also recognised the potential for the restaurant.

"Dad was thinking of converting it into a swimming pool for the guests at the cottages but I had other ideas. Once he agreed, it was all systems go. I never thought about failing. I guess I was like a little kid who jumps off the diving board for the first time. I wasn't thinking about the possible negative consequences."

Not even the outbreak of foot and mouth disease in Monmouthshire could distract Michelle from her goal and on October 13, 2001, the Stonemill became reality.

"Even though I saw other local pubs closing because of the crisis, I always felt confident about the project."

But the challenge wasn't over... just a month after the opening Michelle fell pregnant unexpectedly.

"Don't get me wrong, me and Mark really wanted a child but the timing was not perfect. We'd just opened and I fell pregnant. It wasn't exactly in the business plan!"

But with the support of her mum Rita, who runs the holiday cottages business, she was able to stay closely in touch with the business throughout.

"Mum was great. I would have struggled to cope without her. It's a difficult juggling act between being the best mum I can be to Jaydn and the best businesswoman I can be but I just try my best.

"I'm not your typical mumsy type of person and couldn't envisage me just staying at home with Jaydn. I need to be busy with the business too.

"There are times when I wish I could just pack a few things for Jaydn and head off for a Sunday in the Forest but we've usually got the small matter of 50 covers for Sunday lunch."

But for the time being, Michelle is happy with her lot. "I know I have been very lucky and none of this would have been possible without my parents' support but that's one of the main reasons why I am so determined to make the business a big success."