Archive - Tuesday, 1 June 2004


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County fares well in travel guide

VARIOUSLY described as prosperous, picturesque and magical, Monmouthshire and the surrounding country actually fare remarkably well in the latest edition of the Lonely Planet guidebook to Wales.

In fact, the company whose guides became notorious after branding Scotland as "full of drunks" and London as "joyless", is almost universally complimentary towards Wales as a whole.

The new guide, out this week, says Wales is "ready to take on the world with its intoxicating mix of old world charm, dramatic natural beauty and hip cities".

It adds: "Today the spirit of Wales is stronger than ever. Welsh arts, film and, above all, rock music have hit the world and killed off the stereotypes of pit villages and rugby players. With new pride and confidence the red dragon seems ready to take on the world."

London-based travel writer Abigail Hole spent four months touring Wales last autumn before putting pen to paper.

Abi, 33, has already written guidebooks on England, Tunisia and more.

Speaking from Portugal where she's working on a new book for that country, she said: "I'm genuinely fond of Wales. I think it's a great place to travel in and explore.

"There are so many contrasts in a small place. It has industrial heritage next to walking country.

"A lot of the country was quite new to me which means I was seeing it as a new traveller would.

"I realise writing a book like this is a massive responsibility as people can base their holidays on what you write.

You soon know from people's comments if you are getting it right."

So how does a Lonely Planet writer really go about rating a town and all it has to offer? "I go to new places, talk to local people to see what they recommend and speak to people in the tourist office.

"In Chepstow a man told me I must look at a ruined house. He drew me a map and I ended up at this amazing place which I put in the book.

That is what I really love about it - the process of discovering something and helping other people discover it too.

"It can all be quite haphazard but that is way travelling really is. You have to be ready for anything."

What the guide says:

Abergavenny - "A handsome, gentle market town. The belly of South Wales' gastronomic revolution - there are some amazing restaurants, and a renowned annual food festival. A fine base for walks in the Black Mountains. Recommended eating places include the famous Walnut Tree, the Foxhunter, the Trading Post and Luigi's.

Monmouth - "Against a background of pastel-painted Georgian prosperity, the small town of Monmouth bustles and thrives. Today it's ended up feeling thoroughly English. Monnow Bridge is the UK's only complete example of a late-13th-century fortified bridge. The guide recommends Bob's Caf, Henry's and the Punch House among others.

Chepstow - "Just over the border from England, across the imposing Severn Bridge, Chepstow is an attractive small town nestled around a great S-bend in the Wye. Home to a very popular local racecourse." Try the Wye Not, or the Boat Inn for a meal.

Tintern Abbey - "The spectral ruins of this Abbey sit by the Wye. The village of Tintern received the uncertain accolade of being in the book Crap Towns (2003). However, it's a sweet enough setting."

Llanthony Priory - "Set in a the magical Vale of Ewyas."